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LAMBETH
PALACE AND THE
MUSEUM OF GARDEN HISTORY
Words and
pictures from our online reporter Ken Amery
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Lambeth Palace and the Museum of Garden History
Lambeth Palace has been the London residence of the Archbishop
of Canterbury since 1207. In times gone by, the location of the
palace, situated as it is immediately opposite the Houses of
Parliament on the other bank of the Thames was particularly important.
Successive Archbishops were very much involved in secular activities
and on occasions held important government posts. It was therefore
essential that he be close to both spiritual and secular centres
of power.
Before the first Westminster Bridge was built in 1750, a horse
ferry operated between the Palace site and Millbank. At this
time the river was wider and much shallower, which meant that
it could be waded through. This site was one of the principal
river crossings and the revenues from the ferry went to the Archbishop.
After the bridge was opened he received compensation for the
loss of business.
The palace and gardens is a quiet oasis in the centre of London.
While walking in the garden you could be in the heart of the
country. Although the Archbishop was in residence (like the Queen
his standard is raised when in residence) we did not see him,
but Mrs Williams returned from shopping while we were there.
It appears that even Archbishop’s wives have their chores
to do!!
The Palace was first opened to the public in 2000 as part of
the millennium celebrations and it was anticipated that it would
be open for that year only, but because of the interest in the
palace, tours are now a regular part of the life there. Our experienced
and knowledgeable guide described the history of the palace and
introduced us to some of the people that had walked the corridors
during its history.
Very little of the Palace is original. The building has been
restored or renewed over the centuries due to Civil War excesses,
Victorian “improvements” and German bombs.
Our first stop was the crypt or undercroft dating from the 13
th century; the oldest surviving part of the palace. When built
the palace was much closer to the river Thames and this part
of the palace was subject to regular flooding. Because of this
the floor was built up to a much higher level to ensure that
the crypt could be used, mainly for storage. It was not until
1907 after the Embankment had been built and the river made narrower
making flooding a thing of the past, that the flooring was restored
to its original level. This is a quiet and tranquil chapel where
prayers are regularly said and where household members and staff
can withdraw to prayer and quietly think.
Our next stop was the Great Hall, ravaged under Cromwell but
rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon sometime after 1660 in a Gothic style.
It has a fine hammer beam roof and now houses the library containing
some fine illuminated manuscripts. Just being allowed to touch
books that are over 500 years old is an amazing experience. Also
displayed here are the gloves worn by King Charles the first
when he ascended the scaffold.
We were then privileged to see some of the State Apartments,
which are surprisingly modest rooms, considering the people that
have been entertained here. Our last stop was the chapel. The
chapel, like much of the rest of the building has suffered damage
over the years, but has been rebuilt in the traditional style.
If you look closely at the black and white floor tiles you can
see where they were scorched by burning beams after bombing during
the Second World War. As with many chapels the ceiling is painted,
depicting biblical and religious events but not in a traditional
style but in a very modern way.
Our next stop was the Museum of Garden History, almost next
door to the Palace, housed in the former church of St Mary-at-Lambeth.
A church has stood on this site since 1062 and was originally
dedicated to St Mary the Virgin. It was deconsecrated in 1972
and the Museum was opened in 1977. An experienced and knowledgeable
guide treated us to a very interesting guided tour of the museum,
church and the churchyard.
As well as containing an interesting collection of old gardenening
tools and books, the church itself contains one of only three
total immersion fonts installed in Anglican churches. This was
introduced in 1904 but rarely used. The last time it was used
in the 1970s the local fire brigade were called into fill it
as the pump no longer worked! The font has seven steps down representing
the seven deadly sins and seven up representing the seven sacraments
of Christianity.
Burials ceased in the churchyard in the 1850s and it is estimated
that there are 26,000 burials there. This was the parish church
of many famous people. There are no less than six archbishops
buried in the church, although only the bowels of Archbishop
Parker who died in 1575 are there, the rest of him is buried
in Lambeth Palace! Among the other notables in the churchyard
are Captain Bligh of “Mutiny on the Bounty” fame
buried here along with his wife, day old twin sons and a grandson.
It’s fitting, that the churchyard should contain the remains
of five members of the Tradescant family. John Tradescant the
Elder was famous for introducing many plants and flowers into
this country, which we now regard as commonplace but at the time
of their introduction were new and rare. Legend has it that if
their tomb is danced round twelve times as Big Ben strikes midnight
a ghost appears. Luckily we were not staying that long! Also
there is the tomb of Elias Ashmole, who helped to catalogue John
Tradescant the Elder’s collection. This tomb is now, unfortunately
part of the floor in the museum office and not available to view.
He of course, founded the famous Ashmolean museum in Oxford to
house the collection. Just as interesting are the tombs of the ‘not
so famous’. My particular favourite is that of John Field,
1742 – 1790, described as “Wax Chandler of this Parish.”
The churchyard now contains a knot garden designed by the Marchioness
of Salisbury of Hatfield House. It was one of her ancestors who
employed John Tradescant the Elder to collect exotic plants form
all over the world. Knot gardens have been popular in Great Britain
since the 16 th century when woody herbs were clipped to form
low geometrical designs.
The day ended with an excellent lunch in the Courtyard Café in
the Museum.
This was a unique and interesting visit to two fascinating places,
just brimming with history, yet still very much alive and playing
their very individual and important parts in the modern world.
Ken Amery
11th November 2005
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